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Hello, I am from Sichuan, Chengdu, China, I am a photographer from China. I like your works very much. I hope you have the opportunity to travel to China.I am in the hometown of giant pandas in Chengdu, Sichuan province. Welcome to see the giant pandas. I will be very happy to recruit agents.I have encountered a lot of problems in my own photography studio, I hope to get your help, mainly in the location of the lighting, I have a photography studio, I have encountered a lot of problems in the process of shooting, I hope to get your help.

Цікаво дівки пляшуть 😂😂😂, ну вже щось 🤣🤣🤣, хоч не такий злий.

Gran fotografa y hermosa modelo, gracias.

great video, one tip about the sekonic meter, if you where not as confident with it, turn the dial around the eyepiece, and pop up the dome on the top, then you can use it as a reflected or ambient light meter as well, also this meter is programable, that is to say you can add markers in the scale on the bottom of the lcd to indicate the limits (dynamic range) of the film, so you can instantly see if you are too hot, or under exposed, sekonic calls it digital profiling (of your dslr or mirrorless camera), but you can do this for film too.

great first session with film, Don't get disheartened, it takes a while to get used to it, I have done the same, but I shot MF, a Hasselblad 500c\m and H1 (HM 16-32 film back); also 6x12 on a Sinar F2 with 65mm 5.6 and 90mm f5.6 lenses, it does take time, but film needs light, to react with the silver ions, also a suggestion, if you had trouble focussing, get a 85mm tilt shift, that way you can get BOTH models face and props in focus at the same time (sheimpflug principle). One useful tip, use a dslr to meter, or at least check the analogue meter's settings, the histogram gives a highlight warning (the ] bar on the right) and instant feedback, to see if your exposure is right, PS, I've noticed the hand held meters have a 2/3-1 stop difference to the mirrorless (z6, which I shoot) in matrix metering mode for the same iso settings. a bonus tip: for film use low asa in bright light, ND filters, as you can easily wash out a asa 400 film in summer lighting, also use hoods where possible, to eliminate flaring, also with the lenses you had, you could have used the macro, it has a lower iris setting than most other focal length lenses, F32 rather than F16/F22 so you can achieve more deep depth of field than possible with the other std 55 lenses could achieve, extra safety with focus accuracy.